From eating field rats to discovering a sacred belly button – Chiang Rai offers travelers a taste of authentic Thailand.
Far from Bangkok’s chaotic pulse, Chiang Rai, with its glistening rice fields, quaint city streets and golden spires, promises an escape into the distant past of a bygone era.
Upcountry, time has a different quality – it flows sweetly on the banks of the Mae Kok River, where simple pleasures abound and nothing is rushed in its passing.
A colony for painters, sculptors and ceramic artists, Chiang Rai’s alluring beauty has inspired a number of Thailand’s most famous artists including Chalermchai Kositpipat of White Temple fame and visionary Tawan Duchanee (the creator of Chiang Rai’s remarkable and equally disturbing Black House).
Historically, Chiang Rai belonged to the Lanna Kingdom, founded by King Meng Rai in the 13thcentury. Lanna means ‘land of a million rice fields’, which aptly describes the emerald plains of this northern city.
Legend has it that King Meng Rai founded the capital city in 1262 when his elephant veered off a trail and took him to a scenic spot on the Mae Kok River, where he saw the military potential of building a town.
Thirty-four years later, the King founded Chiang Mai as the new capital, but always regarded Chiang Rai as his most beloved city. After several hundred years of being ruled by Burma, Chiang Rai was finally officially a Siamese province in 1939.
Today, Chiang Rai has arrived into the modern era after a few sleepy decades of thankfully slow progress. Situated about one and a half hour’s drive from the Golden Triangle, where Laos, Myanmar and Thailand converge, the city offers a perfect gateway to explore the mighty Mekong and the ethnic hill tribe villages of this region.
FRIDAY 8 am – THE WHITE TEMPLE (WAT RONG KHUN)
Designed by famous Thai Artist Chalermchai Kositpipat, the stunning White Temple (053-673-579) is one of the most photographed temples in Thailand. The creator works and lives at the temple and if you are very fortunate, you may get the chance to meet him. He speaks fluent English and is usually surrounded by his friendly entourage and adoring fans. Entry is free and be sure to visit the museum and gallery.
You can easily hire a driver to take you to the temple, located along Phahonyothin roadside at KM 816, approximately 13 km from the city, or take a public bus from the Chiang Rai bus station for less than $1 (20 baht). To return, flag down a public bus or songthaew (red truck taxi) from the police station on the left side of the road leading back to the main highway. The bus ride is approximately 30 minutes.
Treat yourself to a small snack of coconut ice cream and head back to Chiang Rai for lunch.
11 am – LUNCH NORTHERN STYLE
There are plenty of noodle vendors serving Kao Soy, Chiang Rai’s famous Burmese style chicken curry and noodle dish, but the most well known vendor is Po Sai located just opposite Wangcome Hotel. Typically eaten for lunch, the restaurant closes at 6 pm. Kao Soy is served with yellow noodles brimming in a rich milky curry soup and topped off with crispy fried thin noodles. Be sure to add the pickled cabbage, small red onion and lemon slice. An absolute treat and costs only 25 baht which is less than $1!
1 PM THAILAND’S LITTLE SWITZERLAND
Known by locals as Thailand’s Switzerland, Doi Tung (‘Flag Mountain’) is an alluring mountain-top destination located near picturesque Shan, Akha and Lahu hill tribe villages.
Doi Tung was traditionally Thailand’s thriving center for opium production until Her Royal Highness Princess Srinagarindra, (the late Princess Mother of Thailand), initiated The Doi Tung Development Project in 1988.
Inspired by her son, the late King Bhumibol, whose efforts to end opium cultivation began two decades earlier, the Princess Mother recognized the root cause of the people’s struggles was their impoverished lack of options for legitimate livelihoods. By introducing other sustainable crops such as coffee, strawberries, cabbages and macadamia nuts, opium production levels fell significantly and the project was a great success.
Stroll through the vibrant hills of Mae Fah Luang Garden (053-767-0157,http://www.doitung.org/tourism_attraction.php) adjacent to the Royal Villa in Doi Tung.
Inspired by fond memories of her earlier years in Switzerland, the Princess Mother built her last residence – the Doi Tung Royal Villa in the cooler climate of Chiang Rai province.
With an impressive collection of over 70 species of different flowering plants, the garden is a sight worth seeing, with sweeping views of the majestic valleys surrounding the Royal Villa.
Located an hour’s drive north of Chiang Rai, The Mae Fah Luang Garden is open daily from 7 am to 5 pm.
6 PM SUNSET ON THE MAE KOK RIVER
Enjoy the view of the Mae Kok river at Favola at Le Meridien Chiang Rai Resort (221 / 2 Moo 20 Kwaewai Road, Phone: 053-603-333 http://www.favolachiangrai.com/en/).
Delicious Italian dishes and excellent service.
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